Orphaned Animals

Problem Wildlife

Bats WILDLIFE FACT SHEET #1

Bats in Buildings

In Newfoundland, the bat species usually found in buildings is the Little Brown Bat. This is the only common species found throughout the Island, and is also the most frequently encountered bat species found in buildings throughout its range.

Bats will occupy unused attics and eaves as roosts, and on occasion large breeding populations, known as nursery colonies, may congregate in such locations. Since bats are nocturnal, their presence may go unnoticed by the home-owner until unusual noises and possibly odours are evident. If a large bat colony is allowed to remain at large in a building, an odour problem will eventually result from the accumulated guano (droppings). Despite the fact that this is excellent fertilizer, it's presence in an attic is not recommended! Considering that Little Brown bats can live for thirty years and habituate the same roost, potential exists for a sizeable collection of guano over time.

It is strongly advised that no action to evict bats from buildings be undertaken in early summer. This covers the period from about June 15 to August 15. We have recorded young born as early as June 22. It is thought that young bats are capable of flight at an age of around three weeks. However, young are not proficient fliers and insect-hunters at that age. Consequently, any action taken to seal off the bat colony in early summer may result in the stranding, and consequent death of any sealed in animals. These dead animals, as they decompose, may also result in unpleasant odours in the building. It is for these reasons that it is recommended that colonies not be evicted until late summer.

Prior to evicting a bat colony, consideration should be given to providing an alternate roost site. Plans are available for bat houses. These plywood and screen wafer-like structures can accommodate most colonies. One or more may be attached to the external surface of the occupied building, or located on a nearby outbuilding, pole or tree. Given the bat's ability of consuming large quantities of flying insects around a home, there is good reason to have them nearby.

It is strongly recommended that exclusion techniques not be employed until late August. Any such action taken is meant to encourage the bats to leave and then prevent them from recolonizing. Exclusion techniques that can be employed include installing a light in the eave or occupied location or installing a loud radio in the same, often in combination with the light. If this is not possible, placing a quantity of mothballs in the bat living quarters is usually effective. Any exclusion attempt must be followed by a sealing of all access points. This may require caulking around chimneys and eaves. In many cases, narrow seams may be covered with a strip of nylon window screening (similar to that on vinyl slider window screens). This fabric is cut to a size that is around an inch longer and wider than the seam. The screen is attached by stapling it over the hole or seam along the top edge only. Because this lies flat over the outside of the seam, bats can push out through to exit the house, but cannot return.

If you are unsuccessful in evicting the bats in late summer, wait until late fall at which time suspected entry points may be sealed. Most bats will not overwinter in houses. They require a winter roost of high humidity, such as underground caves and mineshafts, since they will otherwise dehydrate and dessicate in less humid sites. By November, bats should have vacated the premises and action to seal up the access points can be undertaken at this time.

When attempting to clean bat (or bird and rodent) droppings from an attic or eave, first dampen down the site with water and bleach. Wear disposable gloves and a disposable face mask for your own protection. Accumulations of droppings in a warm environment may harbour histoplasmosis, a fungal disease to which we can be susceptible, and which is usually contracted by inhaling airborne spores.

Northern Flicker (Woodpecker) WILDLIFE FACT SHEET #2

Northern Flicker (Woodpecker) Damage to Buildings

The Northern Flicker is a pigeon-sized woodpecker that is a year-round resident of Newfoundland. This bird has a tan and gray coloured head with a red triangle on the back of the upper neck. The body is grayish-brown and has black bars. The underwings show yellow when opened. Male flickers differ in colour from females only by the fact that they have a black "moustache" extending downward from each side of the beak.

Flickers are known to "attack" houses at various times of the year, usually in spring. Homeowners fear that the pecking by these birds will damage wooden eaves or roofing material.

Usually the reason for such attacks is behavioural. Male Flickers, like other woodpeckers, do not have a "song" to attract a mate in spring, and instead resort to drumming on hollow trees or other objects to announce their presence to prospective mates. Where hollow trees are scarce or absent, hollow eaves, roofs, and occasionally steel pre-fabricated chimneys make great sounding boards for these drumming males.

On rare occasions, Flickers will excavate a nest cavity hole in an eave or other part of a wooden structure. Generally though, this species is somewhat flighty and will not nest in such close proximity to humans.

Also on occasion, Flickers will create one or more smaller holes in eaves or other parts of wooden buildings. This is done in search of concealed insects, which are their major food, and not wood as some people might think. Flickers listen to hear concealed insects within the wood and then peck into the wood to access them. Often when this activity occurs, it indicates the presence of rotten wood in addition to insects. In this case, the Flicker is giving early warning of a need for structural repairs to a home and may even be warning of a termite or wood-tunnelling insect problem that requires immediate attention.

In any of the above situations, Flickers can usually be repelled by hanging shiny disposable aluminium pie-plates from a piece of sturdy string from the eave at each corner of the house. These plates move in the slightest breeze and flash light around, which usually proves unnerving for the Flicker, who will soon depart for less stressful accommodations.

Installing a woodpecker nest box on a tree some distance from a building may also help in reducing the incidence of flickers damaging the building. In addition to serving as a nest site and winter roost, the hollow box may itself serve as a drumming location. Flickers are also attracted to suet bird feeders. By providing a hanging suet holder some distance from the building and keeping it stocked with suet, the flicker may be encouraged to focus its feeding activity away from the home.

Flickers, like most other birds, are territorial at least during the breeding season. It may be to your advantage to encourage a non-offensive flicker to take up residence. As with many wildlife species, if an animal that does not damage your property claims this as its territory, it will repel other flickers. This may actually prevent other flicker damage to your property.

Roosting and Perching Birds WILDLIFE FACT SHEET #3

Deterring Roosting and Perching Birds from Buildings and Structures

A number of bird species use man-made structures as day-perches as well as overnight roosts and nesting sites. Notable species which engage in this activity are Starlings, Pigeons (Rock Dove) and various gull species.

Problems associated with this activity most frequently involve accumulated droppings, and the resulting odour , unsanitary and possibly hazardous conditions associated with falling bird droppings on walkways and even pedestrians. Additionally, accumulated bird droppings contain nutrients which promote moss and lichen growth on roof felt and asphalt shingles, resulting in property-damage from premature shingle and roof covering deterioration.

The only permanent remedy to prevent mass roosting is by exclusion. The installation of excluder devices and modifications will prevent the birds from perching. This is best accomplished by the installation of raised monofilament lines or fine stainless wires or sloped ledge guards along perch areas, and modifying ledges and railings to a slope that inhibits perching (about 60E pitch).

In instances where the installation of such excluders is not practical or possible, such as the problem of gulls landing on flat roofs, the use of deterrent devices may eliminate the problem. The use of eyeball balloons and other wind-activated devices may resolve such occurrences.